Milan Menswear surprised us as it featured bolder designs than those of London – always described as the place for innovation and eccentricity regarding the male wardrobe.
One of the key trends featured by the stylish events confirmed this season’s will to use bold colors. Beside greenery and yellow, Milan runways added red, orange and pink as color highlights in the catwalk.
Missoni showed characteristic patterns, patterns that also popped up at Marni, merged with textures in a visual vibe printed in suits with a distinctive pijama-style. Following a preference for a laid-back loungewear was MSGM that mixed it up with streetwear for a casual look more in tune with a wearable wardrobe. Such a relaxed concept was also seen in Giorgio Armani’s cozy layered outfits, and on its Emporio line where jolts of color were infused with life into the designs, as with the multicolored stripes seen in Fendi. Talking about stripes? We spotted zebra in the aforementioned Missoni. Color wasn’t only used in geometrical versions, cartoon motifs and swirling florals colored Jeremy Scott’s universe, with exaggerated silhouettes taking the stage to further emphasize Moschino’s signature <more is more> motto in terms of design.
Following the still relevant athleisure category in fashion, Etro bet for sporty overtones with an irreverent approach, the patterns and textures agenda also got a supporter in the famous four letter brand. If we choose loose in fashion thanks to London, we’ll choose chunky following Milan: Moncler Gamme Bleu and Ferragamo made quite a solid statement with hefty accessories in pieces -specially shoes, that exude masculinity, reinventing the chunky soles in female footwear for male audiences.
Bold, colored, and lounge-like were adjectives catwalking past the nouns of each brand’s name, so who broke the mold? Two titans were on standby, ready to deliver a different concept: Versace and Prada, both brands changed their signature styles, normally spotted for its iconic and cohesive proposals, with a poetic Prada offering soft knitwear and Versace selling leather born in the grunge aesthetic, while dark undertones were ever present in a streetwear-inspired collection.
Milan’s menswear wildly went after new concepts, overtaking London’s reputation of creative offerings in terms of shape and color, but the couture approach wasn’t absent, with pieces formulating a subtly elegant subtext even in oversized shapes and grunge-gang aesthetics. As the curtains come to a close, we reflect back and corroborate the trends previously favored by London: a bold use of spring shades turned acid, and the fact that fashion has gone big, with oversize taking the lead to occupy a huge space of your wardrobe, literally, in fall winter 2017.